When working socks there are 3 struggle points:
the cast-on,
the increases
the heel,
knowing where, when, and how to do the heel.
Ok… That’s more than 3 points.
But that the reason for this pattern: having a model with all the different sections in different colors! It will guide you through the making of your first toe-up socks with the help of a very visual multicolor sock!
It's your time to choose: solid socks or multicolor ones ??
Materials
Yarn: Sock yarn, with at least 10% of nylon. With 100gr you can make an entire pair of socks.
Notions: US size 2 (2.75 or 3mm), circular or DPN. Markers. Gauge: 30sts & 42 rows in 4” stockinette stitch in the round with US2. Dimensions:
Foot length: 8¾; 9¼; 10 ; 10¼ (10¾; 11¼ ; 11¾)” [22 ; 23,5 ; 25 ; 26,5 (27,5 ; 28,5 ; 30)cm].
Ball of the foot: 7 ; 7¼ ; 7¾ ; 8¼ (8½ ; 9; 10)” [17,5 ; 18,5 ; 20 ; 20,5 (22 ; 23 ; 25)cm] at the widest point.
Directions
If you are using the magic loop, make sure your number of stitches must be precisely split in 2.
The first half of the stitches is used for the instep (top of foot), while the other half is for the sole. In this pattern, I like to have the first needle (the beginning of the round with the marker) as “Instep” while second needle will be the “sole”. This difference is important once we reach the gusset (purple), the heel extension (yellow) and the heel (peach).
If you’re making your socks with 1 color, place a bell marker after each section to make the row count easier and finish with similar socks!
Begin by weighing your yarn at the beginning of the project and regularly once you are past the heel. The pattern is written for mid-height socks so if you want similar height sock, stop the ribbing once you used half of the weight of your yarn (more details in concerned sections).
Abreviation
K: knit
M1Right: With left needle, pick up horizontal strand in between stitches from BACK to FRONT.
K1 in FRONT loop of st.
M1Left: With left needle, pick up horizontal strand in between stitches from FRONT to BACK.
K1 in BACK loop of st.
Nd1 & Nd2: needle 1 and 2.
PM: place marker
Rep.: repeat
P: purl
P2tog: purl 2 together
PM1 & PM2: place marker 1 and 2
R: row
SSK: slip purlwise, slip purlwise, put the 2 sts on left needle, K2tog in the back loop.
Pattern
Cast-on & toes (red) – in the round
Cast on a total of 20 ; 24 ; 26 (28 ; 28 ; 32 ; 36)sts with the Turkish Method or Judy’s Magic Cast-On.
There are 10 ; 12 ; 13 (14 ; 14 ; 16 ; 18)sts on each needle.
Rnd1: Nd1: K1, PM (beginning of round), k to end of needle.
Nd2: k to end of needle.
Rnd2: Nd1: *K1, M1R, k to last st, M1L, k1*
Nd2: same as Nd1.
Rep Rnd1 and 2 until you have 52 ; 52 ; 54 (56 ; 60 ; 64 ; 68)sts.
Foot (Pigeon, speckled light grey) – In the round
Work in stockinette until the sock reaches your ankle (with your foot perpendicular to the ankle).
Or approx. 5½; 6; 6¾ (7; 7¼; 7½)’’ or [14 ; 14 ; 15,5 ; 17 (18 ; 18,5 ; 19)cm].
Gusset (Purple) – in the round
In the round, the increases are only on needle 2. They add fabric to cover the side of the heel.
Rnd1: Nd1: k all sts.
Nd2: K1, M1R, k to last st, M1L, k1
Rnd2: Nd1: k all sts.
Nd2: k all sts.
Repeat those 2 rounds until you reach:
Needle 1 has 26 ; 26 ; 27 (28 ; 30 ; 32 ; 34)sts.
Needle 2 has 42 ; 42 ; 43 (44 ; 46 ; 48 ; 50)sts.
Heel extension (Yellow) – Flat Nd2 only
In the next 2 section, we only work on Nd2 FLAT.
Set-up: Nd1: K all sts.
Nd2: K13 ; 13 ; 13 (14 ; 14 ; 15 ; 16)sts, PM1,
SSK, k14 ; 14 ; 14 (14 ; 15 ; 15 ; 16), PM2
There is 13; 13; 14 (14; 15; 16; 16)sts after M2.
R1: Turn, P2tog, p to M1,
R2: Turn, SSK, k to M2.
Repeat those 2 rows until there is 8 ; 8 ; 8 (8 ; 9 ; 9 ; 10)sts left between the 2 markers. Finish with R2 and don’t work the last decrease.
Flap Heel (Salmon) – Flat, Nd2 only
R1 : Pick-up and k6 sts from left side of Heel Extension, turn.
R2 : Sl1, p13; 13 ; 13 (13 ; 14 ; 14 ; 15), pick-up and p6 sts from right side of heel extension, turn.
There are 20 ; 20 ; 20 ;(20 ; 21 ; 21; 22)sts between markers 1 and 2.
R1: Sl1, * k1, sl1*, rep. to 1st before M2.SSK using 1st on each side of M2. Turn.
R2: Sl1, p to 1 st before M1. P2tog using on 1st on each side of M1. Turn.
Repeat those 2 rows using the stitches before and after M1 and M2 until you’re back with 26 ; 26 ; 27 (28 ; 30 ; 32 ; 34)sts on Nd2. Finish with R1 without working the last decrease.
Return to work in the round.
Rnd1 : Nd1: k all sts.
Nd2: SSK, k to end.
Leg (Guacamole – Speckled Green) – in the round
Work in the round until desired length minus 1” (2.5cm). Mine are 2,5” (6cm).
For socks longer than 7 or 8’’ [18 to 20cm], try them on regularly and work an IncRd when it gets tight.
IncRd
Nd1 : Work as established
Nd2 : K to Climbing Vine, M1R, work pattern, M1R, K to end.
If you want your socks longer than mine and wish to use most of your yarn, work the leg until you reach 55g of yarn left (on a 100g skein). Then move on to the ribbing and bind off.
Ribbing (Turquoise) – in the round
Work in rib 1x1 (k1, p1) for approx. 10 rnds (desired length or until your left with approx. 2g of yarn).
Elastic Bind Off
The elastic bind off uses more yarn than a regular bind-off. Be sure you have enough yarn left. If not it’s better to unknit a row or two.
k1,
yarn over and bring yarn in front, p1,
bind off knit st and yarn over, over the purl st.
yarn over and bring yarn in the back, k1,
bind off the purl st and yarn over, over the knit st.
Repeat steps 2 to 5 until end of round.
You made one sock!! Good for you! Now move on to the second one!
Gently wash and block you socks.
Weave in ends and wear!!!
P.S.: don’t worry about the holes you see on the pictures with the different colors. By working with 1 color and by weaving correctly the strands you will avoid them.
The pattern is also available as a pdf. If it's easier for you, feel free to download it !👇👇.
Happy knitting,
Sidney 😘😘